Chateau Les Carmes Haut Brion 2023

WEINWISSER: "50 % Cabernet Franc, 30 % Cabernet Sauvignon, 20 % Merlot, 13.5 Vol.-%, pH 3.62, 60 % ganze Trauben inkl. Stiele, 70 % neue Barriques, 20 % Fuder 18 hl, 10 % Amphoren, 50 hl/ha. Dicht verwobenes Bouquet, zarte blaubeerige Konturen, schwarzer tasmanischer Bergpfeffer und Brasil-Tabak. Im zweiten Ansatz Heidelbeergelee, edle Cassiswürze und Nougatschokolade. Am sublimen strukturierten Gaumen mit ungeheurer Energie, die dem engmaschigen dichten satten Körper eine nicht vorstellbare Dynamik gibt, «ein Paradox» meint Guillaume Pouthier lächelnd. Im konzentrierten langanhaltenden Finale ein Feuerwerk von Brombeeren, dunkler Kirsche und eine erhabene Adstringenz sowie edle Bitterness. Ganz großer Les Carmes, der in seiner perfekten Trinkreife die Höchstnote erreichen kann."

VINUM: "Einmal mehr macht dieser Wein sprachlos, brillant; ungemein tiefgründig, floral, Veilchen, Iris, Koriander, zitrische Noten, ein Gänsehautduft, wie man ihn nur auf Les Carmes findet; der Gaumen ist dicht, konzentriert, dabei federleicht, schwebt über der Zunge, die Tannine sind perfekt, seidig, grandioser Spannungsbogen, fast endlose Länge. Einmal mehr ein Les Carmes, der sprachlos macht. Wird in jeder Phase seines Lebens Freude machen."

JAMES SUCKLING: "This is a fantastic wine and very, very exciting, with purity and brightness to the floral, spicy and blackberry notes. It’s full and deep with agility and weightless. You feel the greatness in this. The winemaker says this is more concentrated and structured than the 2022. Lightly salty. 60% whole-berry fermentation. 50% cabernet franc, 30% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot. From organically grown grapes."

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "Guillaume Pouthier and his team have once again crafted one of Bordeaux's most unique and characterful wines. Revealing aromas of mulberries and raspberries mingled with notions of vine smoke, orange zest, rose petals and spices, the 2023 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and concentrated, with a powerful, vibrant and complete mid-palate, concluding with a long, ethereal and mouthwateringly saline finish. Sensual, suave and seamless, its beautifully refined tannins are, analytically, more abundant than even those of the 2022 vintage, yet they are so brilliantly integrated as to be near-imperceptible. This blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot is crafted for longevity, though its refined structure will make it surprisingly approachable at an early age. It's maturing 70% in new oak barrels, 20% in 18-hectoliter foudres and 10% in amphorae. A creditable yield of 50 hectoliters per hectare represents a decided agronomic success in what was a challenging growing season."

DECANTER: "Extremely floral nose; peony, iris, rose, expressive and aromatic with black fruits too, liquorice, dark fruit, cedar, some black chocolate and coffee bitterness on the nose too. Smooth and supple, nicely weighted in the mouth, forward, grippy and bright with a soft chew - really quite polished and pristine. Seamlessly integrated with the acidity balancing the tannins and the ripe fruit with some mineral wet stone undercurrents and slight bitter liquorice and grapefruit skin on the finish. It’s a little serious, but certainly polished with a soft chew of strawberry and raspberry and stoney-edged tannins giving excellent terroir signature. Ripe, fresh, clean, fragrant, sleek and streamlined. It has a lovely style and lots of finesse from winemaker Guillaume Pouthier. Harvest 11-25 September, 60% whole bunch fermentation taking the alcohol down from 14.3% at picking to 13.5%. 3.62pH."

FALSTAFF: "Tiefdunkles Rubingranat, opaker Kern, violette Reflexe, zarte Randaufhellung. Sehr feine Würze, dunkle Beerenfrucht, frische Herzkirschen, Brombeerkonfit, zartes Nugat, mineralischer Touch, sehr facttenreiches Bukett. Komplex, stoffig, rote Kirschen, seidige Tannine, saliner Abgang, ein sehr finessenreich, ein dynamischer Wein mit enormen Trinkanimo, große Frische, salzig und anregend, sicheres Reifepotenzial."

LISA PERROTTI-BROWN: "A blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Merlot, Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2023 has a pH of 3.62. It was fermented with 60% whole bunches and it is aging in 70% new oak barrels, 20% new oak vats of 18 hl, and 10% amphorae. It has an opaque purple-black color and needs a little swirling and coaxing to bring out fabulously pure, well-defined notes of juicy black cherries, blackcurrant pastilles, ripe juicy blackberries, and licorice, leading to hints of tar, peonies, wet slate, and black olives, with a touch of Sichuan pepper. The light to medium-bodied palate is airy and refreshing, with a solid backbone of very fine-grained, prancing tannins and bold freshness supporting the pristine black fruit flavors, finishing long and minerally. I had to spend a good 15 minutes with this wine to allow it to grow: it is incredibly tight to begin but expands to become something powerful. A beguiling 2023 with fully ripe black fruit characters and a paradoxical airiness, it really makes your head spin in the best possible way!"

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "Deep in color, the wine is equally deep, sporting nuances of blackberries, black cherries, flowers, blueberries, tar, herbs, and spices. On the palate, the wine is rich, full-bodied, supple, and deep. There is intensity, purity, length, and vibrancy. The wine is rich, and concentrated, yet, the cool part of the tasting is that the wine is also light on its feet. With all the obvious density, the wine never feels heavy. Although it is mouthcoating, its also elegant, leaving you with layers of crushed stones, herbs, and a wealth of ripe, sweet, dark fruits, with a touch of salty chocolate in the finish. The wine was made using 60% whole bunch clusters, blending 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, 13.5% ABV, pH 3.6. The wine is aging in a combination of 70% new, French oak, 20% foudres and 10% amphora. Picking took place September 11- September 23. Drink from 2025-2050."

JEB DUNNUCK: "As to the Grand Vin 2023 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion, this beauty checks in as 50% Cabernet Franc, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 20% Merlot that was fermented with 60% whole cluster, brought up in 70% new barrels, with a good portion in foudre and amphora. It has a deep ruby/purple hue and vibrant aromatics of cassis and black cherries as well as leafy tobacco, spring flowers, woodsmoke, and graphite. Medium to full-bodied, it stays tight and compact on the palate, with a lively spine of acidity, beautiful precision and focus, ripe yet certainly present tannins, and outstanding length. It’s incredibly elegant, and I wouldn’t be surprised to see this gain mid-palate density over the course of its élevage. It’s going to be long-lived."