Chateau Petrus - Petrus - Ex Chateau 2023

WEINWISSER: "Ein geheimnisvoller Petrus mit Lagerpotenzial steht am Ende meiner über die ganze DIN-A5-Seite gehenden Notiz. Gutsdirektor Olivier Berrouet zeigt sich erstaunt über den Jahrgang: «Wir waren von der Intensität und der Tanninkonzentration überrascht», erzählt er mir bei meinem Besuch. Der pH-Wert liegt bei 3.5, 14.5 Vol.-%, 40 hl/ha, 30 % mehr Tannine. Dicht verwobenes, tiefgründiges, eher kühles und nobles Bouquet mit edler Würze, dunklen Beeren, erdiger Mineralik und subtiler Floralität, dahinter rote Johannisbeeren, Lakritz und feine Gewürze. Öffnet sich zunehmend im Glas. Ein kraftvoller, anders als bei sonstigen Primeurs noch nicht ganz so expressiver Petrus, der sich zunächst eher kühl und distinguiert zeigt, nicht ganz so «tight» wie der 2010er, aber in diese Richtung gehend. Am dicht und fest verwobenen Gaumen ist er konzentriert und vielschichtig, ein samtiges Kraftpaket, das von einer royalen Rasse kontrastiert wird, fest umklammert von einem engmaschigen Tanninkorsett und einem edlen mineralischen Kern. Im konzentrierten langen Finale schwarze Beeren, tiefschürfende Terroirwürze, zarter Eisenton, feinpfeffriger Extrakt und edles Blaubeerconfit. Ein Petrus, der in 15 bis 20 Jahren das Potenzial auf die Bestnote hat (gl)."

JAMES SUCKLING: "Intense blackberry and chocolate aromas with plenty of ripe pips and spices. Medium body with fluidity and a sense of wonder to it. The quality of the tannins is so good as to be imperceptible. It has 30% more tannin than the 2022, but then it grows on the finish. pH 3.65 and 14.5% alcohol."

VINUM: "Tiefgründig, expressiv, sehr floral, ein Korb voll Beeren, Tee, schwarze Schokolade, Kirschen, ein Gedicht; am Gaumen satt, süsse Frucht, viel Kraft und Opulenz, ein Mund voll Wein, gleichzeitig mit einer bestechenden Eleganz, der Wein scheint über der Zunge zu schweben, sensationelle Tannine, grossartige Länge, salines Finish. Ein Monument."

LISA PERROTTI-BROWN: "The 2023 Petrus has a deep garnet-purple color and a pH of 3.65. It bursts forth with ready-to-go notes of ripe, juicy blackberries, black cherry preserves, fresh plums, and crushed violets, leading to waves of scents of star anise, cardamom, and cinnamon stick. The medium to full-bodied palate vibrates with energetic black fruit and exotic spice layers, framed by velvety tannins and beautifully integrated acidity, finishing long and so, so seductive."

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "Flowers, chocolate, dried raspberries, cherries, spice, citrus, and a background note of truffle create the aromatic profile. On the palate, it is interesting to note the viscosity, coupled with freshness, length, and purity. There is an elegance that allows the purity in the berries to already express themselves. The velvet-textured finish, with its spices, chocolate, plums, and cherries stays with you for at least 60 seconds. The wine is perfectly balanced, seamless, and well, prefect. The success of the vintage is due in large part to waiting for the right moment to harvest, as well as taking their time to pick. With their deep, blue clay, they harvested September 11 - September 20, 14.5 ABV%, 3.65 pH. It is interesting to note that even though the wine has 30% more tannins, the wine feels soft, and silky. Drink from 2030-2065."

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "The 2023 Pétrus reveals a fresh, perfumed bouquet of raspberries, cassis, iris and violet mingled with hints of spices, followed by a full-bodied, layered and textural palate with a deep core of pure, crystalline fruit framed by exquisitely sweet structuring tannins. Concluding with an ethereal, resonant finish, it represents a singular interpretation of this estate in a more tensile, ethereal style, and it's all the more compelling for that. This year, Olivier Berrouet minimized pumping over to avoid over-extracting, thereby preserving ultra-refined tannins. The harvest, conducted between September 11 and 20, brought in the Merlot grapes at their optimal maturity. As usual, it will mature 50% in new oak."

DECANTER: "Gorgeous aromatic profile; a little herbal, inky almost, pencil led, crayon, floral notes of iris and violet, cool blue fruits, mint and fresh raspberry. Some definite stoney minerality on the nose - dark and smoky. Racy and alive, this has zing combined with a chalky graphite grip to the tannins. Fresh and clean, really well defined with tannins that give the structure but despite their presence they're so harmonious. This is just so good, really juicy, mouthwateringly so, but keeps the straight finesse all the way through. It’s soft and totally charming - not over the top at all, yet not discrete either. This has confidence and character. A balance of power and delicacy with a touch of flesh on the finish that gives an extra bounce and sense of enjoyment. A subtle and stealthy wine that sneaks up on you, leaving you wanting more by the finish. 3.65pH. An extra gram of tannins per litre of wine (4g) compared to 3g in 2022. Harvest September 11-20. A potential 100-point wine."

FALSTAFF: "Tiefdunkles Rubingranat, opaker Kern, violette Reflexe, zarte Randaufhellung. Tabakig-kräuterwürzig unterlegte schwarze Waldbeerfrucht, Preiselbeeren, Sanddorn, etwas Lakritze. Kraftvoll, feste Struktur, rotbeerige Nuancen, gute Frische, reife Tannine, zarte Extraktsüße, mineralisch-salzig, bleibt sehr lange haften, eine gelungene Verbindung von floralen, delikaten Aromen in der Nase und einem festen Körper im Abgang, zeigt große Länge, sicheres Reifepotenzial."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "Deep crimson hue. Pure and fresh with real zing and sparkle. Has a density of fruit but there’s nothing heavy. Filigree tannins that do not aggress (but apparently 30% more than in 2022). Super length with a mouth-watering finish. Delicious already but will inevitably age. Drink 2032 – 2055"